Pique Weave in Woven

Pique fabric follows a distinctive weaving pattern that creates its textured, quilted-like surface. This weave consists of:

1. Plain face fabric: Made with one series of warp and one series of weft threads
2. Stitching warp threads: Additional warp threads interwoven at the back to create depth
3. Horizontal cord formations: These raised, sunken lines run continuously through the fabric
4. Skip drafting system: Helps in achieving a structured yet breathable fabric

Each cord structure forms one repeat, contributing to the ribbed or waffle-like texture of pique fabric.

Technical Construction of Pique Fabric

Warp Thread Arrangement

• The warp order follows a ground-stitch-ground sequence.
• Typically arranged in a ratio of two ground threads per stitching thread.
• The stitching ends are interwoven at intervals to maintain structural integrity.

Weaving Stages

1. First Stage: Plain weave is inserted on the ground ends.
2. Second Stage: The stitching warp is lifted over multiple picks, depending on the final fabric design.
3. Final Stage: The two weaving stages combine to create the finished pique weave.

Drafting and Lifting Plan

• Ground ends are controlled by front shafts (skip-draft method).
• Stitching ends are placed on two back shafts to reduce friction.
• Coarse fabrics use two healds, medium-weight fabrics use four healds, and fine fabrics use six healds.

Types of Pique Weave

There are four primary variations of pique fabric, each with distinct construction techniques:

1. Ordinary Pique (Welt Structure)

• Loose-back construction
• No wadding picks
• Lightweight with a subtle textured effect

2. Weft-Wadded Welt Structure

• Includes wadding picks to enhance depth and structure
• Creates a more substantial fabric for heavier applications
• Requires additional loom modifications for weaving

3. Fast-Back Welt (Pique Structure)

• Stitching ends are interwoven in a plain order
• Produces a firmer, more durable fabric
• Reduces the float length, preventing wear and tear

4. Waved Pique Structure

• Indentations do not align horizontally
• Raised cords are arranged in alternating groups
• Uses two wadding picks per repeat to form wavy effects