| Test Category | Sub Test Category | Standard / Requirement | Found (Ex.) | Method / Parameter | Remarks |
| pH Value: Acidity to Alkalinity (Potential of Hydrogen) | Critical Process based on Item: Waist / Seat / Front Rise / Back Rise / Thigh / Inseam / Side Seam / B-hem | 6.5 – 7.5 | 7.3 | AATCC-81 / ISO 3071 | Satisfactory Grade Range |
| Fabric Weight (A/W) | GSM | (+/- 5%) | 255 | ASTM D3776 Apparel | GSM / OZ : 33.99 |
| OZ/Sq.Yd | (+/- 5%) | 7.5 | |||
| Dimensional Stability to Washing: After 3 HL (Shrinkage test) | Critical Process based on Item: Waist / Seat / Front Rise / Back Rise / Thigh / Inseam / Side Seam / B-hem | (+/- 5%) or (+/- 3%) | -3% | AATCC 135 / 150 | MaxFleece, French Terry, Rib, Thermal: +/- 7%, MaxWovens: +/- 3%, MaxStretch Woven: +/- 4%, Seersucker: +/- 5% |
| Skewing test: After 3HL | Bowing / Twisting / Spirality / Torque | (+/- 5%) | 0 | Buyer wise | |
| CF to Washing: After 3HL | Color Change | Grey Scale – 4 | Wet (Dark/ Black: 2) | AATCC 150 | General Appearance Acetate / Cotton / Nylon / Polyester / Acrylic / Wool |
| Color Staining on Multifiber | Grey Scale – 3 | ||||
| CF to Rubbing / Crocking | Dry (Dark/ Black : 3) | 4 | L:4-5 & W:4-5 | AATCC-8 Apparel | NSS: No Seam Slippage. |
| CF: Color Fastness | 3 | L:4 & W:4 | ISO 105 X12 | ||
| Tearing Strength | Warp | 4.0 lbs | 11.29 | ASTM D1424 | PDF prepared by |
| Weft | 3.5 lbs | 9.03 | |||
| Tensile Strength | Warp | 40 lbs | 179.36 | ASTM D5034 | textiledetails.com |
| Weft | 30 lbs | 113.59 | |||
| Seam Strength | Side Seam | 22 lbs | 37.4 (STB) | ASTM D1683 Modified (Sewn Seam of Woven Apparel) | Ranges from 0 to 14 on a pH scale & the neutral solution is 7. |
| In Seam | 51.5 (STB) | ||||
| Seat Seam | 90.0 (FRS) | FRS: Fabric Rupture at Seam | |||
| Crotch | 50.0 (STB) | ||||
| Seam Slippage | Side Seam / Inseam / Seat & Crotch | 15 lbs | NSS | ASTM D1683 Modified | NSS : No Seam Slippage. |
| Button Attachment Strength | Btn Waist / Btn Inner Waist Left & Right / Hook Waist / Bar Waist | 15 lbs x 10 Sec | Pass | Buyer wise | 16 CFR Part 1500.51/52/53 FR : Fabric Rupture |
Table of Contents
1. pH Value Assessment
The pH level of a garment affects skin compatibility. A neutral pH between 6.5 and 7.5 is ideal to prevent skin irritation. Testing follows standards like AATCC-81 or ISO 3071. Maintaining this balance ensures the fabric is neither acidic nor alkaline, promoting wearer comfort.
2. Fabric Weight Measurement
Fabric weight, expressed in grams per square meter (GSM), influences the garment’s feel and durability. Acceptable variations are typically within ±5% of the specified weight. Methods such as ASTM D3776 are used for this assessment. Consistent fabric weight ensures uniformity across production batches.
3. Dimensional Stability to Washing
Shrinkage can alter garment size and fit. Testing for dimensional stability involves subjecting the fabric to home laundering cycles, with acceptable shrinkage usually within ±5%. Standards like AATCC 135 or 150 guide this process. Controlling shrinkage maintains the garment’s intended dimensions after washing.
4. Skewing Test
Skewing, including bowing and twisting, affects garment appearance. A skewing tolerance of ±5% is generally acceptable. This test ensures that the fabric’s grain remains aligned, preventing distortion in the garment’s shape.
5. Colorfastness to Washing
Colorfastness determines a fabric’s resistance to color change during laundering. A grade of 4 on the grey scale for color change is desirable. Testing follows methods like AATCC 150. High colorfastness ensures the garment retains its original hue over time.
6. Colorfastness to Rubbing (Crocking)
This test evaluates the likelihood of color transfer from the fabric to other surfaces. Dry rubbing should achieve a grade of 4, while wet rubbing should reach at least 3. Standards such as AATCC-8 or ISO 105 X12 are used. Ensuring minimal color transfer maintains both the garment’s appearance and prevents staining of other items.
7. Tearing Strength
Tearing strength measures the force required to propagate a tear in the fabric. Acceptable values are 4.0 lbs for warp and 3.5 lbs for weft directions. ASTM D1424 outlines the testing procedure. Adequate tearing strength indicates the fabric’s durability under stress.
8. Tensile Strength
Tensile strength assesses the fabric’s ability to withstand pulling forces. Standards are 40 lbs for warp and 30 lbs for weft. Testing follows ASTM D5034. High tensile strength ensures the garment can endure tension without breaking.
9. Seam Strength
Seam strength evaluates the durability of stitched areas under stress. Tests focus on critical seams like side, inseam, seat, and crotch. Methods such as ASTM D1683 Modified are employed. Strong seams are vital for the garment’s structural integrity.
10. Seam Slippage
Seam slippage measures the fabric’s tendency to pull away from the seam under stress. An acceptable threshold is 15 lbs without slippage. This test ensures that seams remain intact during wear, preventing openings or distortions.
11. Button Attachment Strength
Button attachment strength tests ensure buttons can withstand a pull force of 15 lbs for 10 seconds. This assessment prevents button detachment during use, enhancing garment longevity and user satisfaction.
Abbreviations:
AATCC = American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
ASTM = American Society for Testing and Materials
Adhering to these testing protocols is essential for producing high-quality garments that meet industry standards and consumer expectations. Regular testing throughout the production process helps identify and rectify issues early, ensuring the final product is both durable and comfortable.
Prepared by:
Shafiul Bashar
(CQI / IRCA) | Quality Assurance / QMS & Technical Compliance
📧 shafiul.gmtstech@gmail.com
