Looking for more stability in fabric areas? If yes, you should look at “Interlining”, the most essential garment element. Are you interested to know about it? Well, Interlining is an extra fabric that has an addition to a garment. It is a need in providing more warmth in a winter fabric or a lighter-weight fabric.
Interlining, applied by sewing and bonding, is a well-constructed lining from the actual garment. Sometimes, finishing becomes a necessary instrument to improve the properties. Looking out for the interlining details available in the textile industry, in this article.
What is Interlining?
Interlining is a supporting fabric that is used between the two layers of fabric. This supporting fabric gets attached to garments through the sewing process or bonding process.
The actual purpose of Interlining is to retain, control, and support specific areas of garments. Also, there is a need to keep the real shape.
Several supporting fabrics are removable. They separate from a specific garment and attach to the finished garment. It has a criterion of getting used in heavy or rigid fabrics. That is why, we always support canvas and non-woven fabrics, for it.
Types of Interlining
Selecting suitable types of interlining is difficult. To help decide the types of interlining, one must evaluate hid needs, material condition, and care instruction. There are distinct types of interlining layering methods, for instance, Spun and wet-laid, linear laying, and cross-laid. Other bonding methods are chemical with binders and mechanical with needles. It has classification into diverse types of interlining. These are:
1. Based on Fabric Structure:
a. Woven Interlining
Woven Interlining is there to support coats and cloaks. The fabric material is 100% cotton which makes the fabric stiff. There is an application of starch and non-fusible interlinings. The biggest advantages are strength and stability. It has plain weaves. The disadvantages are that it is expensive for casual garments.
b. Non-Woven Interlining
To make non-woven interlining, there is no involvement of yarn. It happens from the fiber to fabric stage. These types of interlining lack strength for apparel use. But the versatility and flexible application is the best technique for it
c. Knitting Interlining
Knitting Interlining has variations to impart flexibility and stability. It is lightweight and soft hand feel. The use is the find bulked filaments. This is also expensive in nature and the application area is fashionable outfits.
2. Based on application point:
- Fusible Interlining.
- Non-Fusible or Sewn Interlining.
Description of these types of interlining based on application point:
1. Fusible Interlining:
This interlining gets used between different layers of fabrics by heat and pressure. For that reason, it knows as fusible interlining. There is a requirement for heat and pressure. This interlining is the most used one for any apparel type. It is a usable area of a “ready to wear” garment. It has both advantages and disadvantages. These are:
- Availability is higher.
- Easy to apply process.
- Higher productivity.
- Less fusing time.
- Requirement of High temperature.
- The need for exceptional care.
Fusible interlining is available in the following types based on the resin coating and its properties. These types of interlining are:
i. Polyethylene coated
It has a use in a resin coating. The resin coating provides a greater resistance ability.
ii. Polyamide coated
Polyamides are widely usable in cleanable garments. The temperature remains at 60 degrees Celsius.
iii. PVC coated
Poly Vinyl Chloride is resin-coated and suitable for cleanable garments.
iii. Polyester coated
Polyester-coated interlining is usable in any type of garment. It is an ideal and available garment with a high price.
iv. Polypropylene coated
The resin is polyethylene coated. The fabric is an “attached” thing to the process.
v. PVA coated
Poly Vinyl Acetate is a resin coating use thing with limited washability.
2. Non-Fusible Interlining:
There is no such difference from the fusible interlining. Just a bit different is, non-fusible interlining is used between the two layers of fabric without any heat and pressure. To get better preparation for this non-fusible interlining, fabrics must have treated with starch. Then, it must get dry and then sewn with the main fabric. This interlining is available to use in the “Flame Retardant” apparel.
- Making flame-retardant garments.
- Easy techniques.
- No elaboration on the machine.
- Using in the steel industry.
- Not a better quality.
- Not a suitable thing for large production.
- Availability is low.
- Heavy workload.
- Labor cost is high.
Non-fusible interlinings are made of cotton, polyester, nylon, viscose, and wool. Also, fabric types like canvas, flannel, and non-woven fabric can use interlining.
Characteristics of Interlining
The characteristics of Interlining is a bit different from the usual lining terms. Here are some characteristics of interlining mentioned below:
- Uses in between two-layered Fabrics: It is an accessory that can be usable between the fabric’s two layers.
- Uses in apparel manufacturing: It is used in the collar, cuffs, jacket’s front part, and in coats. Interlining is also there to support the control area of the garments as well as to hold the actual shape.
- Joining: It gets joined by fusing and sewing.
Functions and Application of Interlining
Functions and application areas are quite different according to the characteristics of interlining. Let us introduce you to the following functions and applications in the following section.
- Supporting the garment.
- Controlling the garment shape.
- Controlling the apparel area.
- Reinforcing the garment’s components.
- Making the apparel attractive.
- Ensuring an anticipated quality of the fabric.
- Improving garment performance.
Interlinings are available for use in collars, waistbands, cuffs, front-facing, outwear, blazers, jackets, plackets, etc. Interlining is nothing but a lining between the pre-existed lining and the fabric outside part in a sewing manner. Mostly, dressmakers add the interlinings to the neckline areas and the front parts of the coats. It does not have any notices as it remains inside the garment.
The advantages of interlining have several numbers. Hear them out in the following part:
- Cannot be seen from the outside.
- Maintaining the structure of the garment.
- Making the garment stiffer.
- Remaining in the outer fabric.
- Made from Non-Woven fabrics.
- Better dry cleanability.
- Perfect for garment dyeing.
- Easy fusing with hard ire.
- Comparatively low stream reaction.
- Steam fusing capability is absent.
- There is no such high-frequency fusing capability.
- Hardening of the fabric handle.
- Teflon belts’ contamination.
We have already guessed that interlining is a textile layer used between fabric layers. It imparts strength and stability to the outer part of the fabric. For instance, men’s shirts use fusible interlining in collar areas to hold the stiffness. While becoming fused to the fabric’s outer shell, interlining acts as a composite. It improves the fused part’s longevity. Interlinings can be a disadvantageous mechanism if fabric requires flexibility and the feel of a soft hand.
Mahedi Hasan, is a Textile Engineer, as well as a Top Rated content writer at Upwork, Level 02 Seller at Fiverr, Level 02 Publisher at Ezoic. A passionate textile ad fashion content writer, fashion SEO expert, and fashion web designer. Having a B.Sc. in Textile Engineering Degree from Textile Engineering College, Noakhali (TECN). Department is Apparel Engineering. Highly Experienced fashion writer for the last 3+ years. Have extensive 7 years of experience on wholesale clothing business.